Full-bodied, yet nervy whites make food pairing a cinch.
Roast chicken, creamy veal, baked cod with tapenade,
grilled eggplant, stewed chickpeas
or fire-charred calçots dipped in romesco sauce.
The resume is stellar (training in France and 5 years with Telmo Rodriguez), and so is the technique (low-sulphur, biodynamic, extended lees contact.) The grape is obscure and confusing (Abilla, Abillo?), and the wine's name translates as "challenge." And so, Juan Antonio Ponce, who started his winery at age 23, makes what may be the best white wine you've never tasted.